The village of Meursault is home to countless traditional
"maisons de vin," entranched in centuries-old family winemaking traditions.
Domaine Joseph Matrot offers not only some of the finest white and red wines
from Meursault and environs, but also a refreshing break from the traditional
winemaking "recipes" widely employed in the area. The Domaine consists of
18 hectares in total, with individual vineyards located in the villages of
Meursault, Puligny Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses and Monthelie. Domaine Matrot�s
third-generation winemaker, Thierry Matrot, is a bona-fide Burgundian, Meursault
born and bred. But Thierry has his own philosophy about what it takes to
make a great Burgundy.
"The wine must be an expression of both the �terroir�
and the vintage. In order to achieve this, great care must be taken in the
vineyard and the vinification must be adapted to each individual harvest."
In particular, Thierry avoids chaptalization (the addition
of sugar to the unfermented grape must, which results in a wine with higher
alcohol content). He points out that grapes from one year can be perfectly
"ripe" and yield a wine with 12% alcohol, while a mature grape in the following
year might yield a wine with 14% alcohol. In other words, the maturity of
the grape is not measured solely on the basis of the level of sugar (and
hence, potential alcohol). Thierry feels very strongly about preserving and
respecting the natural balance of the grape in each vintage, which can be
destroyed all too easily by excessive chaptalization.
Domaine Matrot�s brochure proudly proclaims that no
new barrels are used for the fermentation and ageing of its white wines.
This glaring deviation from the Meursault norm is logical within the context
of Thierry Matrot�s pursuit of the unadultered expression of terroir and
vintage. Because the vines of Domaine Matrot are 35 years old, on average,
the wines are naturally rich and complex. Thierry avoids masking the natural
traits of his white wines with the powerful flavours and aromas of toasted
oak barrels that have never held wine. He does, however, use 20% new oak
in his red wines, which adds a degree of complexity without overpowering
the inherent character of the wines.