Domaine Dujac is difficult to describe in just a few
words. Its history is not the classic story of the typical Burgundian winery,
whose vineyards and winemaking traditions have been passed down from father
to son for countless generations. This domaine was created almost from scratch
in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, its current owner and winemaker. Jacques prefers
to pick and choose amongst local traditions, adopting those that suit his
purposes, discarding others and creating new ones when needed.
Jacques Seysses has a goal that is obvious to anyone
who knows anything about him: he wants to push the concept of quality to
its uppermost limit, continually improving upon what he has done in the past.
(We might add that this is a particularly daunting task given the already
impressive quality of his wines). Jacques doesn�t play by anyone else�s rules
and he is often criticised by his peers for his choices, which they are perhaps
too close to local tradition to comprehend. For example, in order to guarantee
low yields in the vineyards, it is not uncommon at Domaine Dujac to harvest
and discard a portion of the crop more than once while the grapes are still
in the very early stages of development. The first time Jacques implemented
this practice was in 1989. Most of the Cote de Nuits laughed, until they
realised that if done correctly, these green harvests allow the remaining
grapes to develop a higher concentration of sugar and flavours, resulting
in superior wines. Jacques Seysses believes in "letting the wines make themselves,"
and only intervening when there is a problem. He doesn�t destem or crush
the grapes before fermentation, which is the locally accepted practice, and
avoids filtering his wines whenever possible. Jacques was also one of the
first winemakers in Burgundy to purchase oak in bulk, then have it custom
made into barrels for his domaine by a local cooper. What does all this add
up to? Wines that are often cloudy rather than clear, with explosive, complex
red berry bouquets, and a symphony of flavours on the palate. Domaine Dujac
must be hated by the writers of wallet-sized vintage rating charts, as its
wines are often excellent in the very vintages the charts warn the unknowing
consumer to avoid!