Daniel-Etinne's domaine is situated in Milly - named after Lord Miles of Noyers - where some of the first wines of Chablis were vinified almost 800 years ago. As is so typical in Burgundy, there are a number of Defaix producing wine in this area- so, when looking for the very best in Chablis, make sure you've got this particular one!

The land itself is some of the finest in Chablis but it is Daniel-Etienne's almost obsessive commitment to quality which sets him apart from the pack and which consequently elevates his Premier Crus to Grand Cru levels.

Old vines-an average of 38 years with some as old as `75 - ensure that production is limited naturally. A belief in the hallmark purity of Chablis means that the use of oak has been discarded in favour of up-to-the- minute stainless steel equipment. Rigorous berry-to-berry selection of fully ripened grapes plus low-temperature fermentation over a three-week period conserves the natural glycerine and rich, floral aromas in the resulting wine. Carbon dioxide given off during malolactic fermentation is retained in the tank thereby eliminating the need for sulphur to protect the wine from oxidisation during its 18 months maturation period. Battonage-the stirring of fine lees in the tank-takes place every month during this period of rest.

His "regular" Chablis (Vieilles and Tres Vicilles Vignes) are stored in the cellars for a further 6-12 months after bottling, which means that they are released more than 2 years aftcr the vintage. The Premier Crus are released after 4-6 years. The outstanding benefit of this policy is that Daniel-Etienne's wines can therefore be enjoyed on release. His meticulous winemaking and the techniques that he employs will, however, allow them to be cellared and to offer great enjoyment for many more years.