Centuries of prestige have meant that the name 'chablis' rather
like that of 'champagne', has been adopted as a generic term in some parts of
the World.
There is, of course, only one Chablis with a capital 'C' in
the world and it is a tribute to its distinctive character that a tiny delimited
area - less than 4,500 hectares - has become so renowned.
Whilst Chablis is strictly part of Burgundy, it is considerably
further north from the vineyards of Pouilly Fuisse than it is to the east of
Pouilly-sur-Loire. Its roots, however, are very Burgundian and only Chardonnay
can be used to make its wines. There are four distinct areas within the region
where heavily-fossiliferous, limestone soils run for 20kms along the banks of
the Serein river: 'Petit Chablis' covers 1000 hectares and is generally grown
on the plateau; 'Chablis' is the largest area and it's 2,500 hectares tend to
be North and East-facing hillside sites; 'Chablis Premier Cru', with only 715
hectares, is itself split into 79 climates - some, such as Fourchaume, Vaillon
and Cote de Lechet, being more famous than others; and 'Chablis Grand Cru' with
its seven vineyards smiling over the town from the banks of the river and covering
a meagre 100 hectares.
Stringent limits of production are enforced. Pruning from
the early winter through to March is rigorous and leaves an average 20 buds
per vine. Laws dissuade even the most ambitious vignerons from over-producing
as the maximum yield allowed is 50 hectare litres per hectare except for Grand
Crus where it reduced to 45 hectare litres per hectare. Because of its northerly
location, the cool, long growing season in Chablis allows the grapes to develop
a complexity of flavours as they ripen. This, however, has its disadvantages.
Late frosts are regular visitors in the grapes' formative months (there is the
potential to lose 80% of the crop in a bad year) and early rains can dilute
grapes prior to their picking around the beginning of October. When the skills
of the winemaker and Mother Nature combine, the sublime mineral characteristics
of the soil and the voluptuous intensity of the Chardonnay grape combine to
produce one of the World's most extraordinary dry white wines.
Typical Chablis should bring together a steely, mineral backbone
and a persistent richness of fruit - something the French refer to as terroir.
It is a combination that stood Chablis in good stead for many hundreds of years
and will, undoubtedly, continue to do so for many more.