Dom Perignon is perhaps the most glamorous of the luxury cuvees in champagne. Named after the legendary abbey cellarmaster who first blended the (still) wines of champagne in the 17th century, nowadays it is always associated with a certain secret service agent with a taste for fast cars and beautiful women. Behind the froth and designer label is a very remarkable wine, of superb consistency and character, especially after 10 -15 years bottle age.

The story begins in 1930. Undaunted by the effects of the great depression, Comte Robert-Jean de Vogue, head of Moet & Chandon, persuaded his fellow directors to relaunch a defunct marque called Dom Perignon, bought from Mercier that year. It was a far sighted marketing idea in view of Moet’s long-standing ownership of the famous cellarmaster’s abbey at Hautvillers above the Marne. The first shipments arrived in London in 1935 and in New York the following year. It has been the most aspirational champagne in the States ever since.

Dom Perignon, whatever the vintage, is always a sumptuous champagne with a very distinctive creamy character and an unmistakable aroma of spring flowers. Eleven of the 17 Grands Crus of Champagne are regularly used in the blend; a classic mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is a triumph of the blending talents of Richard Geoffroy, a former medical doctor and one of the finest winemakers in Champagne.

Dom Perignon Rose is always among the greatest pink champagnes the floral 1982 is an absolute masterpiece. On current showing, Dom Perignon wines, old or adolescent, are luxury cuvees that are worth their high price.